What Do You Need Besides The Bird?

Things That Are Necessary:

- Adoption Certificate or Bill of Sale
[Needed to identify that your bird belongs to you.]

- Bedding (Bottom of Cage)
[Your choice - but do not use sand or cat litter.]

- Bird Bath Tubs
[All birds need to bathe. Tubs are better for smaller birds.]

- Cage
[Choose one that is species appropriate.]

- Carriers
[Keeps bird safe while traveling with them.]

- Clean Agent
[Wide range available - soap, water or chemicals.]

- Extra Food Dishes
[Several sets that are dishwasher safe.]

- Extra Perches
[Make sure they are different widths, textures and safe.]

- Extra Water Bottles
[Make sure that they are dishwasher safe.]

- Fruits/Vegetables/Cereals/Grains
[Feed a wide range and variety to your birds.]

- Instructions
[Ask seller about health, diet, routine, care and behavior.]

- Pellets ("Depends on Bird")
[Some birds love pellets, others don't. Many varieties available.]

- Spray Bottle
[Birds need regular baths. This method is good for most birds.]

- Syringes (No Needle "Needed for Babies")
[ For feeding babies or medicated sick birds.]

- Thermometer ("Needed for Babies")
[Good quality way to check temperature of feeding formula.]

- Weaning Foods ("Needed for Babies")
[Helps ease transition to adult food.]

- Toys
[Buy several species appropriate toys and change occasionally.]

- Veterinary Exam
[Annual checkup and fecal is needed for all birds.]

Things That Are Recommended:

- Bottle Brushes
[Toothbrushes are excellent for cleaning bottles and cups.]

- Cooking Mixes
[Can be made in batches and frozen for later.]

- Covering for Floor
[Protects your floor and carpeting. Choose something that is easy to clean or replaceable.]

- Distilled Water
[For baby birds, sick birds and for when you travel.]

- Extra C-Clamps
[Replace O-rings on toys, use for safety reasons.]

- Cuttlebone
[Good mineral source for small birds.]

- First Aid Kit
[Put your own version together inexpensively.]

- Magazines
[Bird Talk, Pet Bird Report, Birds USA, etc.]

- Millet Spray
[Good for treats, use sparingly.]

- Mineral Blocks
[Come in different shapes and flavors. Good for all birds.]

- Play Pens
[Good place for your birds to play safely when not in the cage.]

- Scrapers
[Good for cleaning perches and the cage.]

- Stands
[Good for play time, traveling or training.]

- Treats
[Give occasionally. Many kinds of treats are available.]

Things That Are Optional:

- Bird ID: Microchip
[Permanent way to identify medium to large birds.]

- Extra Cage
[Good when traveling with your bird or as a sick cage.]

- Full Spectrum Lighting
[Gives your bird the full spectrum of lighting.]

- Heat Source
[Used to keep baby or sick bird warm, ask your veterinarian.]

- Incubator
[Great sick cage especially if you have several birds.]

- Seed Guards or Cage Apron
[Helps keep bird from throwing food out of their cage.]

- Sink Cage
[Good to have in case a bird gets sick or injured.]

- Therapeutic Perch
[Helps to wear nails down. Should be highest perch.]

Setting Up For The New Arrival

Are you considering adopting a bird? If so, keep in mind that it will become a member of your family and it will consider you a part of its' flock. It will depend on you for all its' needs and the love you give it will be returned more than you ever thought possible.

What do you need when you adopt a new bird? This is one of the questions we are asked all the time. Back in the Dark Ages of bird care, people thought all that was needed for the bird was a cage and seeds.

However, with more and more breeders selling hand-fed babies, this is no longer true. Back in those unenlightened days of bird care, (around 20 years ago) most of the birds in the country were either imported or smuggled into the country. The birds went through a quarantine station, and most of them were either young (though not babies) birdsor already mature birds. Little thought was given to their psychological well being. While there were many good loving owners, most birds suffered from the lack of knowledge about what their needs were. Luckily today we know so much more about what a bird needs to be kept physically healthy and mentally healthy as well.

When adopting a bird, the new owner has to figure in not only the cost of the bird, but the different supplies needed

as well. It is no longer just the cost of a cage and some seed. It is all the little extras. Many of these accessories are an ongoing cost and not a one time thing.

It is very important to make sure that the new bird sees an avian veterinarian as soon as possible. There is so much more known about birds today and because of this birds are living longer in captivity.

Part of the reason for this is better medical care and knowledge of bird health. More is known about proper nutrition. Today's avian veterinarian is able to diagnosis problems earlier or to prevent them all together. Make sure that the veterinarian you are seeing knows birds, sees them on a regular basis, and is current on all the latest research. While leaps and bounds have been made in the field of avian medicine, there are still few veterinarians who specialize in birds, or see birds as a regular part of their veterinary practice.

Also, keep in mind if you are adopting a baby bird that you plan to continue hand-feeding you will need extra supplies you would not require if you were adopting a baby bird fully weaned.

Sanctuary Program

The Foundation provides sanctuary and permanently cares for birds that are not suitable for adoption or placement in foster care or for persons that their owners are incarcerated or that have specifically requested that their birds remain in permanent sanctuary. All sanctuary birds receive the same high level of care as the birds available for adoption and foster care. Sanctuary birds are housed in species-specific rooms at the Foundation and have access to outdoor flights, abundant enrichment, and psychological and environmental support on a daily basis. The Foundation's sanctuary provides: * A safe haven for birds that prefer not to interact with humans in a companion animal situation. * A safe haven for birds that their owners are incarcerated, until their owners are stable again. * A home for birds with chronic disease with supportive care and nurturance. * Staff dedicated to meet the needs of the individual bird. * Educational programs that focus on some of the sanctuary birds' specific needs or problems, indigenous habitats, conservation status, or social interaction to promote the parrot welfare cause.

For The Cage

Bedding Materials:

1. Grating : needs cleaning often, should not be used with birds that suffer from night fright due to possible injury. Keeps the bird from going down to play in the bedding material. May or may not work that way.
2. Newspaper: No shiny color print due to toxicity. Cheap, easy to clean, can turn white bird black if the bird likes to play with the paper. Bird may shred it and toss it. Very few cases of ingestion.
3. Corncob: Looks pretty, but needs to be cleaned daily. Wet areas must be removed due to mold growth. Easy to toss, but doesn't always scatter when bird flaps its wings. Baby birds might ingest, causing crop impaction.
4. Crushed walnut shells: Can Have mold or pesticides. Might be ingested by baby birds, causing crop impaction. Looks pretty, but easy to scatter when bird flaps its wings. Also easy to toss.
5. Wood shavings PINE ONLY: Never use cedar or chlorophyll shavings. These can cause death!! Looks pretty as well, but easy to toss and when the bird flaps its wings it does scatter. Birds might also ingest, causing crop impaction.
6. Paper Towels: Very absorbent, soft, easy to clean. Bird can shred or toss. Very few cases of ingestion.
7. Paper pellet bedding: Looks pretty, but bird may try eating. Ingestion cases reported. Hard for bird to scatter by flapping its wings, but he can still toss.
8. Grass pellet bedding: Looks pretty, but bird may try eating. Ingestion cases reported. Hard for bird to scatter by flapping its wings, but it can still toss. Can have mold or be contaminated with pesticides.
9. Computer paper: Easy to clean, but bird may shred and toss. Very few cases of ingestion.
10. Citrus rinds: Can be contaminated with pesticides or molds. Looks good and smells good, however. Bird can toss and it can scatter easily when the bird flaps its wings. Cases of crop impaction reported.
11. Paper pulp: Looks like lots of shredded paper. Manufacturer claims even if ingested it won't cause crop impactions, but it is too new on the marked to know if this claim is true.
12. Nothing: The safest of all! However, thorough daily cleaning is a must. Bottom needs to be disinfected daily. Offers no soft footing or extra warmth for young or sick birds.

WARNING: NEVER USE SAND, GRAVEL, OR CAT LITTER! THESE WILL CAUSE CROP IMPACTIONS AND MAY KILL YOUR BIRD

Cleaning The Cage:

• How often should you clean the cage? The answer will vary depending on the level of cleanliness you want or need.

• If the cage is new and you suspect that it contains a zinc coating (toxic to birds) it must be wiped down first with a finegar solution. This will help to prevent toxicity.

Daily
Bottom of the cage should be changed. Fresh food and water (use alternate set of dishes and water bottles if you wish.)

Weekly
Daily routine plus wipe cage around with a good disinfectant, rinse with water after air drying unless directed otherwise. Perches scrapped of droppings or replaced. Toys need to be cleaned, replaced, or rotated as well.

Monthly
Daily routine plus weekly routine. Replace perches that cannot be cleaned. Everything in the cage needs to be thoroughly cleaned. Therapeutic perches cleaned, checked for unusual wear. Inspect cage for any rust, loose joints, peeling paint, rough spots on bars, or other troubles.

Bi-annually
Twice a year (minimum) the cage, especially a large one, needs to be taken outside, scrubbed down, disinfected, and rinsed once again. Small cages can be done more often in the shower or the tub. Perches should be replaced with new ones. Toys need to be cleaned or replaced. Check the bars for rough spots. If the cage is painted or powder coated, check to see if paint or coating is peeling or being removed.

Disinfecting:

WARNING: When cleaning the cage with any disinfectant ALWAYS READ THE LABEL CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS!

There are different levels of disinfecting. Low level disinfectants (kills some bacteria, fungus and viruses). Intermediate level disinfectants (kills some bacteria, fungus, viruses, and tuberculosis). High level (kills all living organisms).

Steps to follow when disinfecting:
1. Soak any area that does not wipe off easily.
2. Clean with soap and hot water to remove all dirt and debris.
3. Rinse thoroughly. This does not kill any bacteria, fungus, etc. Dirt, debris, and soap residue can cut down on the effectiveness of the disinfectant.
4. Use a scrub brush or a toothbrush on any hard to clean area. Make sure you get into all the nooks and crannies!
5. Once air dried, use the disinfectant of your choice, follow all the directions thoroughly. Air dry, outside if possible. Sunlight also disinfects.
6. Rinse with water to remove any residue. Let air dry before replacing bedding, perches, toys, dishes, food and especially the bird itself.

Types of disinfectants:
1. Alcohols : These kill some bacteria. Good on glass, countertops, etc. Also used as a skin disinfectant. Should be used full strength. Goes by names such as ethyl alcohol or ispropyl alcohol.
2. Chlorinates: Kill a wide range of bacteria and viruses. Does not kill tuberculosis, chlamydia (psittacosis), or bacterial spores. Does produce some fumes. Never use full strength, bust be diluted. Either 1:10 or 1:32. Ask your avian veterinarian which dilution he or she recommends. Goes by the name Chlorox®, or generic bleach.
3. Iodine: Kill yeast, fungus, some viruses, some bacteria such as E. coli, aspergillosis, salmonella, strep, staph, and pseudomonas. Does not kill polyomavirus or PBFD. Goes by the names Betadyne®, Vanodine®, and Providone®.
4. Ammonium or quats: Kill chlamydia, some bacteria, some viruses, fungus, aalmonella, pseudomonas, is ineffective against bacterial spores, E. Coli, yeast, tuberculosis, aspergillosis. Use diluted only. Usually 1:200 solution. Goes by the name Roccal-D®, Parvosol®.
4. Chlorohex: Kills yeast, gram-positive bacteria, fungi, some viruses, Newcastles, and aspergillosis. Needs to be diluted. Goes by the name Novasan® and Phisohex®.
5. Phenol: Kills fungi, tuberculosis, viruses, many bacteria, Salmonella, E. Coli, chlamydia, polyoma, reovirus, pseudomonas, and staph. Very toxic to cats and reptiles. Needs to be diluted. Goes by the names Lysol® and Environ®.
7. Gluteraldehyde: Kills all pathogens. Can be used full strength or diluted. Goes by the name Wavicide® and Sporocide®.
8. Wood tar distillate: Kills some bacteria. Needs to be diluted. Very low level disinfectant. Goes by the name Pine-sol®.