Recent Updates on Yacolt Parrots & more......

Currently this is all the recent updates on the Quaker Parrots of Yacolt, and other local rescue efforts.

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Thursday, October 18, 2007

Getting Your Bird To Eat A Varied Diet

How do you get the bird to eat new things? Keep in mind that birds are flock creatures. This means that they will eat better in a social setting. If you have a finicky eater or you are just introducing a new food to the bird, try eating the food yourself with the bird present.

If you or any other birds you own are eating with gusto, your finicky eater will be much more likely to eat or taste the food as well. Some birds need to be right next to you when you try this.



Familiar surroundings:

Birds eat better in familiar surroundings, without distractions. A noisy, chaitic environment will disrupt your bird's mealtime. (And may give you ulcers as well). Try a nice quiet environment while you eat.

Keep Trying:

Keep trying! Keep offering the food. Don't give up. Dietary changes can be accomplished with much patience and persistence on the part of the owner. Just because you offered the food two or three times and the bird refused to eat it, doesn't mean that you should give up. It may take months before you see your bird enjoying all those wonderful foods that you are slaving away to prepare. Too many people only off a new food once or twice and stop offering it. Birds are like small kids. They make take a while before they will try something new. We know of a case where it took almost a year before the bird decided to try the new food!

Sweetening:

Sometimes sweetening the food with a little honey may prompt nibbling. However, you must be careful about making this a habit. Too many sweets are not good for birds. (not for humans either). It could even lead to diabetes or death.

Tricking the bird:

Millet is a favorite seed of many birds. This is like candy to them. Try sprinkling milled or pieces of millet spray on top of the food. Start with more millet than other healthy food. Push the millet down into the new food. Your bird will pick at the millet and maybe even get a tast of the other food. As the bird starts to do this more readily, decrease the amount of millet until you no longer have to add any. We call this the sneaky approach.

Fresh sprouts:

Offer freshly sprouted seeds. You can start seeds yourself or buy sprouts in the produce section of your local grocery store. Varieties include alfalfa, beans and mixtures with radish and clover. This is a special treat for most birds and will start them getting used to different foods. Freshly sprouted seeds also contain lots of vitamins and minerals. Freshly sprouted wheat grass is also a healthy treat.

Alternate:

Another method that may work is to alternate offering seed a few hours at a time, then offering fresh fruits and vegetables, or other healthy foods for a few hours. Keep track of your bird's weight if you do this. Remember to offer the fruits, veggies, etc. first, because your bird will be the hungriest in the morning. It will be more likely to try new foods then.

Different presentation:

Sometimes presenting the food differently will get the bird to eat. Try chopping the food up into small pieces, or you can shred it. Alternate different foods on a daily basis. On the market is a birdie "shish-kabob" toy made to hold food.

Jealousy:

Don't forget about the power of jealousy. Whenever you have more than one bird, there is a competition for your attention. Use it to encourage your birds to do what you want them to do. (Hint: this advice pertains to other areas of training as well.) Birds are very much like little children. What ever one has, the other one wants.

Family affair:

Make eating a family affair -- get your bird involved. Your bird will be the healthier for it. This is not meant to imply that you allow your bird to go from plate to plate, taking whatever it wants, or walking over your food. Little birdie footprints in your mashed potatoes is not exactly appetizing. THE BIRD MUST LEARN PROPER TABLE MANNERS! Try using his own dish or make a special place for him by placing is stand near the table. A bird without table manners is open to many different accidents such as being scalded from hot foods or choosing the wrong food for itself. Wrong foods are chocolate, avocados, and rhubarb. These CAN kill it. Mayonnaise products are included as well, because mayonnaise can go bad rapidly. (Hint: The word "NO" figures prominently in any discussions of birdie etiquette.)

Special goodies:

Feed your birds all types of goodies. While some of them prefer to eat with the family, you should still offer these foods in their treat cups daily. So far a favorite snack food has been popcorn (plain). Birds differ in how they eat it - some have gone so far as to jump into the popcorn bowl. Mix other healthy foods in with their special goodies. For special treats try stringing grapes, popcorn, whole peanuts on a thing string (not too thin), Remove as soon as the food disappears. Also as a special treat, pine cones stuffed with peanut butter and seeds are welcomed by some larger birds.

Putting A First Aid Kit Together

Know how to restrain your bird properly. Knowing this may just save your bird's life!

When a bird is injured, you will need to stop the bleeding before you take your bird to the avian veterinarian. Apply direct pressure to the wounded area and once you get the bleeding under control, then transport the bird to the veterinarian. Remember that the bird can bleed to death very rapidly.

Egg binding, seizures, concussions, protrusions from the vent, difficulty breathing, wheezing, broken bones, etc. need to be taken care of immediately. Get to the veterinarian ASAP!

It is always a good idea to have an emergency kit for your birds. Most of the items included here can be bought at any drug store. Some of the other items you may have to go to a medical supply store to obtain. Whenever you take a trip with your bird, make sure that you bring along a miniature version of the listed items.

ITEMS IN THE KIT

*List of veterinarians and other emergency numbers

*Sterile syringes, no needles: to squirt liquid over injured area or to give avian veterinarian prescribed medication.

*Gauze sponges or pads: to clean the injured area.

*Bandaging materials (gauze or ace bandage that has lost most of its elasticity.

*Towels to restrain the bird or cover the cage.

*Rubbing alcohol (Isoproply) & hydrogen peroxide: to clean an injured area or disinfect equipment.

*Clotting agent (styptic powder, flour or corn starch) to stop bleeding.

*Cotton tipped applicators (Q-tips) to help clean the injured area.

*Hot water bottle, heating pad, or heat light: to keep the bird warm.

*Needle nosed pliers or hemostats: to pull blood feathers or hold things.

*Nail file: to file nails or beaks.

*Sterile saline solution: to help clean or wet an area to get a better look.

Providone iodine syrup and solution (Betadine): to help sterilize area or to be used to clean your hands.

*Penlight flashlight: to provide you with extra light so you can see what you are looking at.

*Tweezers, long and blunted are best: to help you remove material (i.e. seed caught in nares).

*Hand feeding formula or baby food: to give your bird some extra nutrition

Small scissors: to cut gauze or bandaging material.

*Apple juice (the best one to use), Pedialyte, diluted karo syrup: give to prevent dehydration.

*Paper, pen and pencils: to write down what you did and when.

*Wooden tongue depressors: to open your birds mouth, (not for use with larger birds).

*Tape. (masking) won't stick to the feathers much: to hold bandages in place.

*Ziplock bags: to take samples to the vet such as fecals or ingested substances.

*K-Y Jelly (water based lubricant).

*Latex gloves: protects your hands against hazardous materials.

*Sick cage such as an aquarium tank or small cage: to keep a sick or injured bird warm and quiet.


NEVER
apply oil anywhere on the bird!

NEVER give over the counter medicines without an avian veterinarian's approval. They can mask the symptoms of an illness which may result in an erroneous diagnosis!

NEVER treat a bird yourself. This is something that your avian veterinarian must do! Do not self-medicate a bird, ever!

NEVER use slaves, ointments, or creams if your bird gets burned. Use cool water instead.

NEVER give your bird medication meant for a human unless directed to do so by an avian veterinarian.

Our Logo Birds


Our Logo Birds are named "Tarzan" & "Jane"

Also known as Bozo & Goldie.

Goldie “Jane” ,is on the left side of the photo( A Blue & Gold Macaw) that was taken while fruits and veggies where being prepared for all the birds in the sanctuary.

She was purchased at the Los Angles Bird show in November of 1991 at the young age of three months.

Her new mate, “Bozo “aka “Tarzan (A Brazilian Scarlet Macaw) on the right side of this photo m was also purchased at the Los Angles Bird show at the age of 6 months.

Both birds where selected & purchased by the founder & Co founder William M. Driggins & Christopher J. Driggins.

His first core intention of this purchase was to hope these opposite sexed set of birds would bond and breed an exotic highbred Name a “Catalina Macaw”.

Until Christopher started to realize his dream would jus become part of the already over blown population of exotic birds that in America that where in most cases the birds out live their owners.

At this large bird show, with over ten thousand birds. Christopher noticed a large amount of handicapped and special needs birds that sparked his interest. He had already had his first rescue of “Caesar” a Goffin Cockatoo.

And while at the bird show he and his father purchased special needs elderly Umbrella Cockatoo. Noticing, and understanding that the handicap birds would need special housing, perches and toys.

He began a small rescue for elderly & handicapped birds.

Not to mention special perches & specialized arranged toys for their exercise. This touched him and he discovered a special need to sanctuary these special needs birds and elderly birds.

So back in the early 1990’s Christopher Driggins had his heart touched by a broken feather.

Signs Of Illness Or Injury

Knowing what is normal and what is abnormal for your bird can save its life. These are some of the warning signs. Remember, never treat the bird yourself. Always go to an avian veterinarian. The earlier you catch signs of an illness, the better chance your bird has to recover.

APPEARANCE:

- Shivering on perch

- Swaying or falling

- Inability to perch

- Loss of use of a limb


- Laying on the bottom of the cage


- Convulsions


- Sitting with feet farther apart


- Drooping head


- Dazed


- Swelling with air ( looks puffed up like a balloon)


- Wings drooping


- Leaning to one side


- Sleepy appearance


- Loss of balance


- Fluffed up


- Head weaving (non-behavioral)


- Flicking of head


- Tail bobbing


- Signs of hypothermia that do not disappear

NARES, MOUTH, CERE:

- Discharge from nares.

- Clogged nares.

- Blocked nares.

- Discharge from mouth.

- Sores in the soft tissue around beak.

- Whitish bumps on the roof of the mouth.

- Regurgitation (not caused because the bird is happy to see you.)

RESPIRATORY:

- Sneezing (not caused because the bird has learned to imitate you. Wet sneeze.

- Coughing (not caused because the bird has learned to imitate you.)

- Difficulty breathing.

- Rattling or clicking noise when breathing.

- Tail bobbing when breathing.

- Rapid breathing.

- Labored breathing.

- Blocked air ways.

- Thunking sound when stressed.

FEATHER CHANGES:
- Abnormal feathers (color, growth, etc.)

- Matted feathers around eyes, nares, mouth, or vent

- Dark blotches or lines in feathers


- Loss of feather sheen


- Feather plucking


- Decreased preening


-Deformed feathers


- Ruffled feathers (consistently)


- Bothering one spot


- Drab, dirty looking feathers


- Unusually heavy molt


- Missing feathers not due to plucking


EYES:

- Kicking or rubbin at eye area

- Eyes that have an opaque milky appearance

- Eyes that are dull and listless


- Tearing


- Discharge from eye


- Dull lifeless eyes


- Puffy, swollen or red eyes


- Eyes half closed when the bird is not sleeping, or napping


BEHAVIOR:

- Decrease in activity


- Hyperactivity


- Sudden biting attacks


- Decrease in vocalizations


- Unusual fears


- Thrashing or night fright


- Abrupt changes in personality


- Moodiness/irritability


- Stops talking


- Sudden whimpiness


- Regression to baby behavior (weaning, almost weaning)

DROPPINGS:
- Diarrhea (not caused by extra fruit in the diet)

- Blood in any discharge


- Color changes in droppings (not diet related)


- Constipation or a decrease in number of droppings


- Soiled or pasted vent


- Smelly droppings


- Undigested seed or food in droppings


- Matted or stained feathers around vent


- Increased number of droppings


- Decreased number of droppings


FOOD AND WATER CONSUMPTION:

- Not eating or drinking


- Water intake increase


- Water intake decrease


- Refusing favorite food


- Sudden increase in weight


- Loss of weight


LUMPS, BUMPS, BRUISES, SORES:

- Swelling on face, eyes or cere

- Swelling on legs and feet


- Lumps on wings


- Lumps in chest or belly


- Lumps, other


ACCIDENTS:

- Injuries (broken wing, head injuries, broken beaks, bruising, bleeding or swelling of an area)


- Bleeding


- Open sores or wounds


- Bone protruding


- Wing drooping or misaligned


- Cuts, scratches, abrasions


- Bruises


- Refusing to put weight on one foot


CROPS:

- Crop that does not empty


- Baggy over-stretched crop


- Air in the crop


- Slow emptying crop

NAILS AND FEET:

- Overgrown nails and beaks that need care every few weeks


- Toes appear black (or not normal color


- Loss of use of leg


- Cannot grip perch


- Sores on feet


- Scaly, crusty appearing feet


- Overly sensitive feet


- Swelling feet


If your bird is displaying any of these symptoms, bring them into a veterinarian immediately! Never try to treat your bird yourself using "over-the-counter" medications. Your veterinarian is the only one who can make a diagnosis!