What Do You Need Besides The Bird?

Things That Are Necessary:

- Adoption Certificate or Bill of Sale
[Needed to identify that your bird belongs to you.]

- Bedding (Bottom of Cage)
[Your choice - but do not use sand or cat litter.]

- Bird Bath Tubs
[All birds need to bathe. Tubs are better for smaller birds.]

- Cage
[Choose one that is species appropriate.]

- Carriers
[Keeps bird safe while traveling with them.]

- Clean Agent
[Wide range available - soap, water or chemicals.]

- Extra Food Dishes
[Several sets that are dishwasher safe.]

- Extra Perches
[Make sure they are different widths, textures and safe.]

- Extra Water Bottles
[Make sure that they are dishwasher safe.]

- Fruits/Vegetables/Cereals/Grains
[Feed a wide range and variety to your birds.]

- Instructions
[Ask seller about health, diet, routine, care and behavior.]

- Pellets ("Depends on Bird")
[Some birds love pellets, others don't. Many varieties available.]

- Spray Bottle
[Birds need regular baths. This method is good for most birds.]

- Syringes (No Needle "Needed for Babies")
[ For feeding babies or medicated sick birds.]

- Thermometer ("Needed for Babies")
[Good quality way to check temperature of feeding formula.]

- Weaning Foods ("Needed for Babies")
[Helps ease transition to adult food.]

- Toys
[Buy several species appropriate toys and change occasionally.]

- Veterinary Exam
[Annual checkup and fecal is needed for all birds.]

Things That Are Recommended:

- Bottle Brushes
[Toothbrushes are excellent for cleaning bottles and cups.]

- Cooking Mixes
[Can be made in batches and frozen for later.]

- Covering for Floor
[Protects your floor and carpeting. Choose something that is easy to clean or replaceable.]

- Distilled Water
[For baby birds, sick birds and for when you travel.]

- Extra C-Clamps
[Replace O-rings on toys, use for safety reasons.]

- Cuttlebone
[Good mineral source for small birds.]

- First Aid Kit
[Put your own version together inexpensively.]

- Magazines
[Bird Talk, Pet Bird Report, Birds USA, etc.]

- Millet Spray
[Good for treats, use sparingly.]

- Mineral Blocks
[Come in different shapes and flavors. Good for all birds.]

- Play Pens
[Good place for your birds to play safely when not in the cage.]

- Scrapers
[Good for cleaning perches and the cage.]

- Stands
[Good for play time, traveling or training.]

- Treats
[Give occasionally. Many kinds of treats are available.]

Things That Are Optional:

- Bird ID: Microchip
[Permanent way to identify medium to large birds.]

- Extra Cage
[Good when traveling with your bird or as a sick cage.]

- Full Spectrum Lighting
[Gives your bird the full spectrum of lighting.]

- Heat Source
[Used to keep baby or sick bird warm, ask your veterinarian.]

- Incubator
[Great sick cage especially if you have several birds.]

- Seed Guards or Cage Apron
[Helps keep bird from throwing food out of their cage.]

- Sink Cage
[Good to have in case a bird gets sick or injured.]

- Therapeutic Perch
[Helps to wear nails down. Should be highest perch.]

Setting Up For The New Arrival

Are you considering adopting a bird? If so, keep in mind that it will become a member of your family and it will consider you a part of its' flock. It will depend on you for all its' needs and the love you give it will be returned more than you ever thought possible.

What do you need when you adopt a new bird? This is one of the questions we are asked all the time. Back in the Dark Ages of bird care, people thought all that was needed for the bird was a cage and seeds.

However, with more and more breeders selling hand-fed babies, this is no longer true. Back in those unenlightened days of bird care, (around 20 years ago) most of the birds in the country were either imported or smuggled into the country. The birds went through a quarantine station, and most of them were either young (though not babies) birdsor already mature birds. Little thought was given to their psychological well being. While there were many good loving owners, most birds suffered from the lack of knowledge about what their needs were. Luckily today we know so much more about what a bird needs to be kept physically healthy and mentally healthy as well.

When adopting a bird, the new owner has to figure in not only the cost of the bird, but the different supplies needed

as well. It is no longer just the cost of a cage and some seed. It is all the little extras. Many of these accessories are an ongoing cost and not a one time thing.

It is very important to make sure that the new bird sees an avian veterinarian as soon as possible. There is so much more known about birds today and because of this birds are living longer in captivity.

Part of the reason for this is better medical care and knowledge of bird health. More is known about proper nutrition. Today's avian veterinarian is able to diagnosis problems earlier or to prevent them all together. Make sure that the veterinarian you are seeing knows birds, sees them on a regular basis, and is current on all the latest research. While leaps and bounds have been made in the field of avian medicine, there are still few veterinarians who specialize in birds, or see birds as a regular part of their veterinary practice.

Also, keep in mind if you are adopting a baby bird that you plan to continue hand-feeding you will need extra supplies you would not require if you were adopting a baby bird fully weaned.

Sanctuary Program

The Foundation provides sanctuary and permanently cares for birds that are not suitable for adoption or placement in foster care or for persons that their owners are incarcerated or that have specifically requested that their birds remain in permanent sanctuary. All sanctuary birds receive the same high level of care as the birds available for adoption and foster care. Sanctuary birds are housed in species-specific rooms at the Foundation and have access to outdoor flights, abundant enrichment, and psychological and environmental support on a daily basis. The Foundation's sanctuary provides: * A safe haven for birds that prefer not to interact with humans in a companion animal situation. * A safe haven for birds that their owners are incarcerated, until their owners are stable again. * A home for birds with chronic disease with supportive care and nurturance. * Staff dedicated to meet the needs of the individual bird. * Educational programs that focus on some of the sanctuary birds' specific needs or problems, indigenous habitats, conservation status, or social interaction to promote the parrot welfare cause.

For The Cage

Bedding Materials:

1. Grating : needs cleaning often, should not be used with birds that suffer from night fright due to possible injury. Keeps the bird from going down to play in the bedding material. May or may not work that way.
2. Newspaper: No shiny color print due to toxicity. Cheap, easy to clean, can turn white bird black if the bird likes to play with the paper. Bird may shred it and toss it. Very few cases of ingestion.
3. Corncob: Looks pretty, but needs to be cleaned daily. Wet areas must be removed due to mold growth. Easy to toss, but doesn't always scatter when bird flaps its wings. Baby birds might ingest, causing crop impaction.
4. Crushed walnut shells: Can Have mold or pesticides. Might be ingested by baby birds, causing crop impaction. Looks pretty, but easy to scatter when bird flaps its wings. Also easy to toss.
5. Wood shavings PINE ONLY: Never use cedar or chlorophyll shavings. These can cause death!! Looks pretty as well, but easy to toss and when the bird flaps its wings it does scatter. Birds might also ingest, causing crop impaction.
6. Paper Towels: Very absorbent, soft, easy to clean. Bird can shred or toss. Very few cases of ingestion.
7. Paper pellet bedding: Looks pretty, but bird may try eating. Ingestion cases reported. Hard for bird to scatter by flapping its wings, but he can still toss.
8. Grass pellet bedding: Looks pretty, but bird may try eating. Ingestion cases reported. Hard for bird to scatter by flapping its wings, but it can still toss. Can have mold or be contaminated with pesticides.
9. Computer paper: Easy to clean, but bird may shred and toss. Very few cases of ingestion.
10. Citrus rinds: Can be contaminated with pesticides or molds. Looks good and smells good, however. Bird can toss and it can scatter easily when the bird flaps its wings. Cases of crop impaction reported.
11. Paper pulp: Looks like lots of shredded paper. Manufacturer claims even if ingested it won't cause crop impactions, but it is too new on the marked to know if this claim is true.
12. Nothing: The safest of all! However, thorough daily cleaning is a must. Bottom needs to be disinfected daily. Offers no soft footing or extra warmth for young or sick birds.

WARNING: NEVER USE SAND, GRAVEL, OR CAT LITTER! THESE WILL CAUSE CROP IMPACTIONS AND MAY KILL YOUR BIRD

Cleaning The Cage:

• How often should you clean the cage? The answer will vary depending on the level of cleanliness you want or need.

• If the cage is new and you suspect that it contains a zinc coating (toxic to birds) it must be wiped down first with a finegar solution. This will help to prevent toxicity.

Daily
Bottom of the cage should be changed. Fresh food and water (use alternate set of dishes and water bottles if you wish.)

Weekly
Daily routine plus wipe cage around with a good disinfectant, rinse with water after air drying unless directed otherwise. Perches scrapped of droppings or replaced. Toys need to be cleaned, replaced, or rotated as well.

Monthly
Daily routine plus weekly routine. Replace perches that cannot be cleaned. Everything in the cage needs to be thoroughly cleaned. Therapeutic perches cleaned, checked for unusual wear. Inspect cage for any rust, loose joints, peeling paint, rough spots on bars, or other troubles.

Bi-annually
Twice a year (minimum) the cage, especially a large one, needs to be taken outside, scrubbed down, disinfected, and rinsed once again. Small cages can be done more often in the shower or the tub. Perches should be replaced with new ones. Toys need to be cleaned or replaced. Check the bars for rough spots. If the cage is painted or powder coated, check to see if paint or coating is peeling or being removed.

Disinfecting:

WARNING: When cleaning the cage with any disinfectant ALWAYS READ THE LABEL CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS!

There are different levels of disinfecting. Low level disinfectants (kills some bacteria, fungus and viruses). Intermediate level disinfectants (kills some bacteria, fungus, viruses, and tuberculosis). High level (kills all living organisms).

Steps to follow when disinfecting:
1. Soak any area that does not wipe off easily.
2. Clean with soap and hot water to remove all dirt and debris.
3. Rinse thoroughly. This does not kill any bacteria, fungus, etc. Dirt, debris, and soap residue can cut down on the effectiveness of the disinfectant.
4. Use a scrub brush or a toothbrush on any hard to clean area. Make sure you get into all the nooks and crannies!
5. Once air dried, use the disinfectant of your choice, follow all the directions thoroughly. Air dry, outside if possible. Sunlight also disinfects.
6. Rinse with water to remove any residue. Let air dry before replacing bedding, perches, toys, dishes, food and especially the bird itself.

Types of disinfectants:
1. Alcohols : These kill some bacteria. Good on glass, countertops, etc. Also used as a skin disinfectant. Should be used full strength. Goes by names such as ethyl alcohol or ispropyl alcohol.
2. Chlorinates: Kill a wide range of bacteria and viruses. Does not kill tuberculosis, chlamydia (psittacosis), or bacterial spores. Does produce some fumes. Never use full strength, bust be diluted. Either 1:10 or 1:32. Ask your avian veterinarian which dilution he or she recommends. Goes by the name Chlorox®, or generic bleach.
3. Iodine: Kill yeast, fungus, some viruses, some bacteria such as E. coli, aspergillosis, salmonella, strep, staph, and pseudomonas. Does not kill polyomavirus or PBFD. Goes by the names Betadyne®, Vanodine®, and Providone®.
4. Ammonium or quats: Kill chlamydia, some bacteria, some viruses, fungus, aalmonella, pseudomonas, is ineffective against bacterial spores, E. Coli, yeast, tuberculosis, aspergillosis. Use diluted only. Usually 1:200 solution. Goes by the name Roccal-D®, Parvosol®.
4. Chlorohex: Kills yeast, gram-positive bacteria, fungi, some viruses, Newcastles, and aspergillosis. Needs to be diluted. Goes by the name Novasan® and Phisohex®.
5. Phenol: Kills fungi, tuberculosis, viruses, many bacteria, Salmonella, E. Coli, chlamydia, polyoma, reovirus, pseudomonas, and staph. Very toxic to cats and reptiles. Needs to be diluted. Goes by the names Lysol® and Environ®.
7. Gluteraldehyde: Kills all pathogens. Can be used full strength or diluted. Goes by the name Wavicide® and Sporocide®.
8. Wood tar distillate: Kills some bacteria. Needs to be diluted. Very low level disinfectant. Goes by the name Pine-sol®.

Board of Directors

2007 NWBR and BEBSO Officers

Chris "Birdman" Driggins --- Founder & President

Garth Noggle --- Secretary/Treasurer

Mike Shultz --- Vice President

Chris Dahlenburg --- Facilities Coordinator

Tracy Nichols --- Wildlife Coordinator

Scott Williams --- Officer

Associates

American Wildlife Foundation
P.O. Box 1246
Molalla, Oregon 97038
Telephone (503)-829-9567
or e-mail us at:
moreinfo@awildfound.org

Janette Ackermann, DVM
Chief of Veterinary Services

Dr. Ackermann graduated from the Mississippi State University School of Veterinary Medicine specializing in Zoo, Wildlife, and Exotic Animal Medicine. She has a Bachelors Degree in Zoology and a Masters Degree in Conservation Biology, and has completed internships in her field under James Carpenter, DVM, M.S., ACZM, at Kansas State University, and Stuart Porter, VMD, at the Wildlife Center of Virginia. Most recently she completed a three-year residency under Patrick Redig, DVM, Ph.D., at the University of Minnesota's well-known Raptor Center. During her extensive training in the field of wildlife medicine, Dr. Ackermann's work has been published in several veterinary journals, including Avian Medical Journal and the AVMA Journal.

Clark County Emergency Veterinary Services
6818 N.E. Fourth Plain Blvd Suite # C
Vancouver Washington 98661
360-694-3007
(Donating Veterinary Services and Supplies Since 2001)

Macaw Landing Foundation
Jack Devine -- Founder

Mailing Address:
Macaw Landing Foundation
P.O. Box 17364
Portland, Oregon 97217

Phone: (503) 286-0882
Email: macaw@macawlanding.org

Avian Protection League
Linda McCoy (Founder & Director of Operations)
Email: linda@1mortgage.com

911 Parrot Alert
Members: 3772
Category: Parrots
Founded: Jun 16, 2004


Avian Medical Center
Dr. Marli Lintner, DVM

15952 SW Quarry Road
Lake Oswego, OR 97035
503-635-5672
avmckelly@yahoo.com

Dr.Marli Lintner, DVM received her degree in Veterinary Medicine from Oregon State University in 1984. She continues to work with upcoming graduates of OSU through their shadowing program. She really enjoys teaching and it shows! Dr. Lintner opened Oregon's first avian exclusive veterinary practice in the late 1980's and has been working in veterinary medicine exclusively with birds for over 21 years. She has worked with parrots of almost every species, as well as poultry, ratites, raptors, waterfowl and other wild birds. Her Veterinary experience with birds is almost unparalleled in Oregon. She has a great 'bedside' manner for people as well as patients, and explains complicated concepts in easy to understand terms.

She has been an active member of the Association of Avian Veterinarians for over 21 years, and attends the AAV International conference regularly. Her presentation of the master level class entitled "The Diagnosis and Treatment of the Pet Chicken" at the 2006 Association of Avian Veterinarians conference in Texas was well received and very well attended at both sessions. A recipient of the Mamie Campbell Award, she has volunteered extensively with The Audubon Society of Portland since 1986. In addition to performing veterinary services courtesy, she served as a Board member for 8 years, and served as President for 2 years.

Dr. Lintner is also a member of the Oregon Emergency Response Team for Avian Disease. The team has been preparing for the potential outbreak of Avian Influenza, and Dr. Linter is involved in the action.

Along with her family, Dr. Lintner lives with a Severe Macaw, a small flock of chickens, a cat, and two ponies. They have added a new dog to the family just recently. Chile, a Slender Billed Conure, also Dr. Lintner's, resides at the Avian Medical Center clinic.

Perches

By varying the types of perches that your bird uses you can cut down on foot-related problems that may occur. Ideally, by using different types of perches that vary in thickness, texture and hardness, we are mimicking what the bird would use in the wild.

Most cages come equipped with 1 or 2 wooden dowels. While wooden dowels make excellent perches, they lack variation. Natural wood perches, however are what the bird would be using in the wild. They are not one dimension, varying instead from one point to the next. Most should be used with the bark still intact since this will allow the bird to strip the bark like they would in the wild. The other positive about natural wood is that there is more variation. Wood from one tree will vary in hardness from another species of tree. IApple tree perches are softer than mandrone.)

But what is safe and what is toxic? Most fruit trees are safe. The exception being cherry trees. These should be avoided since they are very toxic. However, those that support pitted fruit like peaches, should be used with extreme caution or avoided. The leaves, buds and bark need to be removed first. In addition, the wood needs to be thoroughly dried, since the sap (or green wood) is toxic. Wood from pitless fruits can be given with the bark on. Ideally, all wood should be dried and the leaves and buds removed. Wood from most nut producing trees are also safe to use.



Other precautions to take:

1. Never use branches from any tree that has been sprayed with any chemical, even chemicals that are supposed to be safe.

2. Branches must be cleaned. Use a good disinfectant, then thoroughly rinse and allow it to air dry. Do not wipe it off since this can spread germs.

3. Some trees have a high sap, pitch, or tar content. The sap from some trees can be poisonous although after the wood is dried it does not cause any problems. Branches should therefore be dried for several months before allowing the bird to use it. If you are unsure whether the sap, pitch, or tar can be toxic to your bird, do not use it.

4. Most branches are safe with the bark left on. Allow your bird to strip the branches. This is what a bird would be doing in the wild. It is not only enjoyable for your bird, but it is psychologically important to his well being. Encourage your bird to do so. Check with your avian veterinarian to make sure which barks are acceptable.

5. Check the branches for insects. Some insects can be poisonous when ingested by birds. Plus you don't want them loose in your house either.

6. Branches should not have moss or anything else growing on them. This could harm your bird.

7. Squirrels, birds, and other animals live in trees. The branches of these trees may be contaminated with their excrement. Avoid these trees and find some that were not homes to other creatures.

8. Do not use branches that you pick up off the ground. They could be rotted, contain worms or other insects, or even chemicals.

9. Many people use driftwood for perches. If this is used make sure that it is not rotted, oily (due to oil spills or other nasty things) or slimy.

10. Branches may be placed in the oven at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 10-15 minutes, depending on the size and thickness of the branches to speed up the drying process. Be aware that this will cause a urine-like odor.

Other types of perches to use include rope perches and therapeutic perches. Rope perches are excellent since the mimic the swaying of a branch. Some birds prefer this very much and seem to enjoy the rope perches to the wooden ones. Also excellent are therapeutic perches. They come in different styles as well. Some are rough to touch and others are smooth. Therapeutic perches, when properly fitted, work to keep a bird's nails trimmed down naturally. The very rough ones should not be used as the main perch since they can cause sore spots. The smoother ones should be placed higher up the the other perches. Normally a bird's favorite spot is the highest perch in the cage. By placing the therapeutic perch as the highest perch, it will be used more often, thus producing the desired affect of keeping the hails trimmed down. Plus, therapeutic perches come in many colors, one just right for your bird! (That fashion animal!)

Mission Statement

Since 1999, “Birdman” has been placing exotic birds for free to the special needs individuals in our community. We are a bird welfare organization provides for the complete physical, psychological and environmental well being of the birds in the organization’s care. Through the education of the public, proper legal documentation, extensive support services, and constant follow-up procedures, a bird welfare organization insures that whether the birds remain in a sanctuary, in rehabilitation, are placed into adoptive or foster homes, or released back to their natural habitat, that the birds are continually nurtured. Our bird welfare organization also provides for the general welfare of birds in the public domain by providing accurate, comprehensive and reliable educational materials and resources to the public.

Our Organization provides sanctuary and cares for all birds that are exotic that are suitable for adoption or placement in foster care or for persons that have specifically requested that their birds remain in permanent sanctuary. All sanctuary birds receive the same high level of care as the birds available for adoption and foster care. Sanctuary birds are housed in species-specific rooms of our main facility and have access to outdoor flights, abundant enrichment, and psychological and environmental support on a daily basis. Our facilities provide:

• A safe haven for birds that prefer not to interact with humans in a companion animal situation as well as those that need a new human companion and are available for adoption.
• A home for birds with chronic disease with supportive care and nurturance.
• Staff dedicated to meet the needs of the individual bird.
• Educational programs that focus on some of the sanctuary birds' specific needs or problems, indigenous habitats, conservation status, or social interaction to promote the parrot welfare cause
• Nurturing and care for wild birds that are injured or in some specific need of our services so that they may be returned to their natural habitat or sanctuary as quickly as possible.

At our Organization "to rescue" is to bring a bird that is in an acute, life threatening situation or is in immediate need of assistance into a safe environment to be cared for by a knowledgeable and dedicated staff committed to improving the bird's quality of life. If present quarantine is filled and an emergent situation requiring immediate assistance occurs, we have an interstate network of people and veterinarians available to us. Our Organization rescues:

• Birds found in deplorable conditions or in danger either by the general public, the foundation itself, or by animal control officers.
• Birds owned by owners who, because they were unable to provide a safe environment for the birds, turned the birds over to our Organization.

*** Our new goal is by the end of 2008 is to focus on placing tamed exotic birds, strictly with special needs families, who have the desire for a exotic bird, but not the financial capabilities. ***

We hope to continue to aide these families, with education and a network of Avian veterinarians who will offer discounted services fees & services. And a great bird companion for life.

Bird Poems

One Parrot's Rescue Cry

Will you take me home with you?
I can't promise I'll be good.
No one taught me how to act,
Or behave as a parrot "should".

My first owner didn't treat me right
He said I was "bad".
He never forgave me for that first bite
After that, he was always mad.

He shoved me back into my cage,
And I started to scream.
Then he hit me in rage
And my life became a bad dream.

So, now I scream and yes, I bite.
I'm angry and misunderstood.
But, please take me home with you,
Love me and I'll be good.

Please let me come home with you
And spend some time with me.
I can be sweet again, I know.
Take me home, and you'll see.

My next owner swore at me,
I learned to say things back.
So now my words are crude and rude,
Please cut me some slack.

If you let me come home with you
I'll learn some nicer speech.
If you are kind and give me the time
I'll change my vulgar screech.

I'm really just a baby,
And so misunderstood.
Please let me come home with you,
I can learn to be good.

My next owner just HAD to have me.
She thought I was "way too cool".
But now she doesn't have the time for me.
She's busy with boys in school.

That's why I began to pluck,
I'm not pretty any more.
I won't be much of an ornament,
If that's what you're looking for.

I may never grow new feathers,
My chest may always be bare.
But my soul, I know, could heal itself
If I only had someone who cares.

My last owner died and left me,
She said she made plans.
But she never followed through on them,
And I've fallen into bad hands.

Please take me home and treat me right.
And let our friendship grow.
Please let me come home with you,
This time it will work, I know.

Please overlook my failings,
Please end this pain and strife.
Please, please take me home with you,
And I'll be your friend for life.

Written By: A very special person that wishes to
remain anonymous.

Meeko

The first time I saw you,
I knew that it was true.
You were only a tender 3 weeks old
But I knew I had to have you!

You brought to me so much joy,
Laughter, smiles and tears.
I never thought I could love a bird
And relinquish all my fears.

The day I had to give you up
I thought my heart would literally break.
For the car accident I had a month before,
My independence, it would take.

I knew I could no longer take care of you
And you only deserved the best
So finding someone to be your new "mom"
I would make that my only quest.

It has now been a few years since I gave you up
And my heart still aches for your sweet kiss.
But I know your new "mom" loves you
And I pray you will live a life full of bliss!

God bless you and
I still love you, Meeko!

dallasgf974@aol.com

Something to Share

" Bird crazy " is what they call me.
And parrots are my game.
This name I have been given.
Is an honor, not a shame.

I love them. I care for them. I comfort them too
I also work with humans
and teach them to follow through.

When you bought this lovely creature.
You probably did not know.
Just how very smart it was.
Nor how your life would go.

Sometimes they bite. Sometimes they scream
They make lot's of messes too.
Another thing to remember is;
They'll probably out live you.

Parrots are wild creatures
But live in homes you see.
They depend on us to give to them.
All the things they need.

They need to have their showers.
Don't forget their Doctor too.
They cannot live on seed alone.
So Sad That many do.

They need Love and Understanding
when they are scared or hurt or sad.
They do not understand it when
we are tired, stressed, or mad.

We must always remember.
They were meant to be free.
We must give them more than just a cage.
For they would really like a tree.

So when you take a parrot home.
Please keep these things in mind.
It's up to you to understand
And always to be kind.
By: Tammy Murphy
http://www.thegabrielfoundation.org/

With your wings held high
You put a smile on my face
With all your might
You always left your trace
Never did I see you frown
For your smile was never upside down
Why is it that you loved me so
was I part of your soul
You were always by my side
And although you are no longer on my shoulder
I can still feel your presence
Your fluff warming my heart
I will always miss you
And I know the favor will be returned some day
For when I see you once again
It will be in the sky where
You will once again hold your wings up high

By: Andie

The Captive Parrot

Magnificent creatures, what a wonderful sight,
When a colorful bird, takes off in a flight,

What beautiful wings, so high in the air,
Oh what i'd give, to dwell with them there,

Captured and bred, till they could no longer see,
how to live in their world, nor what its like to be free,

Its so sad how they live, confined to one spot,
Cannot perch in a tree, nor be part of a flock,

They've been brought in our homes, their will not in thought,
We'll just have them as pets, whether they care or not,

Their ways we have changed, their homes we have burned,
Yet what have they shown us, but love in return?

To them we owe a lifelong debt,
How dare we mistreat them, and call them a pet?

Forgiving and trusting, our patience they need,
They cant stay in a cage, or be fed only seed,

Their spirit is high, though a prisoner they live,
What can we do, to match what they give?

What precious angels, they are indeed,
The least we can do, is provide what they need,

So remember your task, when it seems hard to do,
Your kind loving friend, will appreciate you.

Dennis Williams
Tulsa, OK

It all began when I was Six
One budgie that's all I started with
and from that budgie my collection grew
Peach faces, regents and cockatiels
But five or six was not enough
I wanted something bold
I wanted something bright
The Sun Conure it caught my eye at that very first sight
The sun Conure is an exotic
I had no cash in my short pocket
So like a tenacious bull I had set my mind on buying them
But still this was not enough
I wanted something fun
I wanted something creative
The Quaker
To watch this bird build its nest
is like watching a man build a house
And as the years have pasted my collection has
Just grown grown grown
And in the morning all you hear is the
Chatter of the lorikeets
The screech of the sun conures
The scream of the Galah
The chirp of the peach faces
And a Silent beep, beep from the finches
As they wisps through the air
Although the noise drives my brother crazzy
And breeding exotics are not as easy
But there is always a good side of them

By David Young

THE ONE

Ever since they got that bird
They have never spent any time with me
But what am I suppose to do
Well I sit in the corner wishing that I had never been born
I see everybody's eyes around the bird and I wish it could be me
Then my parents go on a trip
I look at the bird with meanness
But then it shouts, "I love you"
Directly to me
Then I burst out
I was never mad just so in love I didn't know it
He is the one I savor and now
Instead of a frown I wear
An upside down one!

By: Sam

A Few Words of Wisdom

"Many of you have forgotten this truth
but you must never forget it:
you remain responsible, forever,
for what you have tamed."

- Antoine de Saint-Exupery

We must fight against the spirit of unconscious cruelty with which we treat the animals.
Animals suffer as much as we do ….
It is our duty to make the whole world recognise it.”

Albert Schweitzer: The Philosophy of Civilization

"Like all intelligent thinking creatures, there would always be those that wore out their welcome. Some would be too noisy, some would grow up to be nasty and some would be cast out when their owners grew tired of them or went through a life change.”

Howard Voren

(One of the largest birdmill breeders in the country speaking about parrots at a breeders conference...confirming the reality, but apathetically dismissing it!)

When the human/parrot interaction goes wrong

Years ago I collected the names of 37 people I'd met who had required plastic surgery to repair the facial damage done by a parrot's beak.

What concerned me the most was the outcome for each of those 37 birds.

All of them either lost their home or had been locked in their cages ever since.

Liz Wilson, USA parrot behaviourist, CVT

PLIGHT OF THE PARROT

A Poem

by Terri L. Doe

The Rainforest where we once lived
was lush and thick and green
The trees they reached into the sky
like none that most have seen.

And in the tree's a hollow spot
is where we both would go,
For in the hollow, we would lay
our eggs as white as snow.

The forest it had plenty
of food for us to eat
And water holes where animals
would play and swim and meet.

One day as I was in my log
I heard an awful sound,
I flew out to the lookout branch
to see what lurked around.

A human with his nets and gloves,
machete and a sack,
Had come to steal our chicks from us,
Oh how I want them back.

And when he took our little chicks
I heard a piercing cry,
He dropped my chick from up above,
I had to watch him die.

And when he left, we went to see
our hollow and our nest
Our family was gone you see,
our place where we would rest.

The village man, he walked for miles
through forest thick and green,
The babies cried inside the bag,
it hurt to hear them scream.

Into the village with the bag
the merchants came to see,
When opened up a single chick
is all that there would be.

On the bottom lay my chick
his body limp and frail,
His eyes sunk in, his wrinkled skin,
no longer would he wail.

The thunders coming closer
the tree shakes from the ground,
Branches flying everywhere
our home is falling down.

I fly away and then I see
my mate is no where near,
I search above the tree tops
no calls for me to hear.

And on the ground my lifelong mate
lies still as still can be,
And we will never mate again
and never will be three.

And all the trees where we once lived
are gone forever now,
For roads and pastures take their place
and ranchers with their cows.

Our food supply has dwindled
our water hole is gone,
No place to rest my tired wings
Dear mate it won't be long.

Soon you will not see us
in the forest if you look,
The library is where we'll be
inside a picture book.

So won't you tell your children
of the parrots you once knew,
And rest your head at night with ease
Knowing, you did all that you could do.

Life with a Parrot

Life with a parrot is strange but sweet,
With rooms filled with chirps and chatter and cheeps.
Now gather around and I'll tell you a tale
Of a bird who eats… and flings her kale.

Kale on the wall, kale on the floor,
Kale on the ceiling, and kale on the door.
Look down there, a bug's on the floor!
Instead, it's some down from a bird that's soared…

Into the air and around my head
This bird is fleeing cause it's time for bed.
Onto the curtain rail, on top of the door,
As if to say "Come on, come on, chase me some more!"

Into the kitchen, into the loo…
What is a cute little birdie to do?
Birdies are suckers for apples and grapes;
It's a trick to get her down from the drapes.

Moms often need help, in the way of a ploy.
Use treats for distraction, or even a toy.
Gellert says, " Screech!" and thinks to herself
(As she goes in her cage and into her nest):
"I'm not tired; don't want to rest."

I babble and chatter and chirp and cheep;
Then forage around for my last bit of treat.
I look for the Kale; it's nowhere in sight!
Look! There! There's some by the light!

I know what to do; I'll snatch it through flight,
But the cage door is bolted and locked real tight.
Someone please help! I need one last bite!!!!!

I let out a scream and Mommy comes by,
To check out the problem; she quickly replies…
"Gellert, I love you, but it's time for bed."
Out the light went so I firmly said,

"Squishy swha shwa squishy shwye"

I think she understood and to my delight,
She brought me some kale from the kitchen so bright.
I had a few bites and then I was done.
I decided it was time to fling some for fun.

Mommy soon said, "Now have a good night."
I closed my eyes and out went the lights.
I grinded my beak; my content's no disguise.
I dreamed through the night of kale and treats,

Cause my mommy is neat; she can't be beat.
She knows what a bird like me wants to eat.

Written by......Lisa Long......Owner of Gellert...Green-Cheeked Conure/Lovebirds. Member of Parrot Passions UK

Parrot's Prayer

Lord, hear our prayer...

For all the wild caught parrots so savagely netted and swept away from their families while their babies, dumped into burlap sacks, cried out in terror.
For all the exotic birds that witnessed the destruction of all the blessed trees and fled fires in fear from man's thirst to dominate, stripping the land of all its inhabitants, leaving nothing but bare ground behind.
For all the parrots that struggled through the capture but died unmercifully in transport from the stress of overcrowded, barbaric, confinements and inconceivable horror.
For all the survivors that made it into captivity but exist in a nightmare of confinement unable to use their God given wings of flight as they once remembered.
For all the baby birds bred in captivity whose crops were burned or have died needlessly from harshness of human hands.
For all captive birds that have been erased from their owner's consciousness and are abandoned to a lifeless existence with only a distant memory of what it was like to hear a gentle voice from someone that used to care.
For all those who don't know what it's like to live life as a bird or even to feel the breeze or sunlight but are doomed to darkness in closets or garages, trapped inside covered cages or shackled.
For all the Macaws, Cockatoos, Amazons and Conures that are stripped of their vocal chords for screaming, their sensitive beaks cut back to prevent biting.
For all birds that end up for sale in pet shops or breeders, like used merchandise, unwanted and frightened in strange surroundings with nothing than the familiar sight of bars on a cage.
For all the beautiful victims used as a marketing tool like a lifeless ornament caged inside hotels, restaurants and stores where no one worries if they are kept warm at night or if they are lonely and bored.
For all the neglected birds that are sick with infections from filthy conditions and malnourishment that may never recover and know what it is to feel healthy and be playful.
For all the misconceived parrots who were beaten, stabbed, blinded and burned for just being a parrot.
For every African Grey and Cockatoo that punishes himself from confinement and boredom by maiming his body body and plucking his feathers and for those who have lost all spirit of life and sway their head low from side to side slowly into insanity.
We ask humbly of you, dear Lord, to look upon all of your magnificent feathered creations. Protect them from evil and harm caused by man and to bring forth an awakening in the human heart and make it a kinder and gentler world for all captive birds - Amen

Sally Brooks

Foods To Feed

GRAINS:

Whole wheat, multi-grained, carrot, nut or corn breads; noodles, spaghetti, ravioli, macaroni or other pastas; all types of rice, preferably brown, oatmeal, Cream of Wheat or Cream of Rice, cook cereals, low or no salt pretzels, lo salt crackers, including belba toast; other low sugar cereals such as Cheerios, Life, Chex, Kix, Berry Kix, etc.

DAIRY GROUP:

Many parrots are not receiving enough calcium in their diets because owners do not give their birds any foods from this group. As with people, calcium is very important. Remember that too much cheese can cause constipation. Birds love their cheese mixed with other foods such as in macaroni and cheese and pizza.

Cottage cheese, yogurts with or without fruit, eggs (any style with shells included, avoid frying, can make in the microwave).

NUTS:

All kinds of nuts except for acorns and horse chestnuts are good for birds. They should be unsalted. Due to the high fat content use with moderation. Peanuts, almonds, walnuts, filberts, Brazil nuts, pine nuts, pistachio nuts, etc. are all excellent. Peanut butter and other butters made from nuts are a great treat!

VEGETABLES:

Vegetables contain vitamins and minerals which are essential to good health. They should be washed thoroughly to remove any chemicals on their skins. They can be served fresh, steamed, baked in a sauce such as tomato sauce or they can be boiled. Frozen vegetables should be warmed. You can serve them one at a time or you can mix several different types together. Some people even serve them with a sprinkle of garlic or onion powder, other herbs, or even some Parmesan cheese. They are an excellent place to add powdered vitamins and minerals. Canned vegetables are high in sodium and they should not be used.

Red peppers, green peppers, yellow peppers, jalapeño peppers, and other types of peppers are okay. Cucumbers, tomatoes or tomato sauce, green peas, pole beans, waxed beans, sugar snap peas, green beans, peas in pods, corn (on the cob or as kernels) acorn squash, butternut squash, pumpkin - all squash should be cooked. Dark green cabbage, cauliflower, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, spinach (fresh frozen or low slat canned). Baby carrots (raw or cooked), carrots, beets, sweet potatoes (cooked) potatoes all varieties, yams, celery, turnips, Brussels sprouts including the stalks. Zucchini, chard, alfalfa sprouts, bean sprouts, kidney beans (cooked, pinto beans, navy beans and all other beans should be cooked. Lettuce, in moderation since it contains a high water content, and other salad greens. (May cause watery droppings or color changes in droppings).

FRUIT:

Because of the high water content in fruit your bird's droppings may become more watery. If the bird receives a lot of fruit he may not be drinking as much. Avoid any pits in the fruit, and the area around the pits. Fruit should be washed thoroughly and any bruising or discolorations should be cut away first before serving.

Pomegranates, figs, grapes (all kinds). Mangos, all melons, papaya, kiwi, raisins, citrus fruit such as oranges, lemons or limes. Apples (all varieties, though birds may have a preference of one over the other, avoid the seeds). Applesauce, and blackberries, bananas, blueberries, strawberries, cranberries, raspberries, currants, cantaloupe, honeydew, water melon, apricots (no pits, remove area around pit that is discolored too), cherries, plums, (no pits), pears (no seeds), peaches (avoid pits and discolored area around pit). Kumquats, nectarines (no pits or area around pit)

MEAT GROUP:

Protein needs to be given in moderation. Always serve cooked and not raw. Steak (no pink showing), turkey, chicken, roast beef, liver, tuna fish (water packed). Wing tips, thy bones and wing bones (depending on bird size) should be given cooked for the bird to crack open and eat the marrow. Avoid fatty meats. Egg, with shells included, any style except fried.

2007 Quaker Rescue Team, Volunteers and Sponsors

S&D Bird rescue [Keizer, Oregon]

• Donna and Steve Burleigh

In Defense for Animals, International (IDA) [Portland, Oregon]

• Matt Rossell
• Connie D.

Macaw Landing [Portland, Oregon]

• Jack Devine

Love Your Pet - [Vancouver, Washington]

• Tracy Nichols
• Pete Rosengreen

Northwest Bird Rescue & Adoption Orphanage [Volunteers]

Vancouver, Washington

• Kamiko Akioka
• Beth Archer
• Joanne Carras
• Andrew Cyders
• Chris Dahelnburg
• Kory Dearborne
• Marcus Frazer
• Brenda Gilliland
• Louis Lowensberry
• Garth Noggle
• Mike Schultz
• Nancy Soukup
• Nathan Stonebreaker

Battleground School District [Battleground, Washington]

Avian Medical Center [Lake Oswego, Oregon]

• Dr. Marti Litner, D.V.M. - & Staff
• Kelly, Behaviorist

American Wildlife Foundation [Molalla, Oregon]

• Dr. Janet Ackermann, D.V.M. - & Staff

Emergency Vet Services [Vancouver, Washington]

• Dr. Liz Grauer, D.V.M. - & Staff

East Mill Plain Animal Hospital [Vancouver, Washington]

A facility VAC Inc.

• Dr. Judd Witherspoon D.V.M. - & Staff

Parrot 911 Alert [Vancouver, Washington]

PetCo Foundation Steve Goodwin [Portland Oregon]

Lowe’s Hardware [Vancouver Washington]

Park Rose Hardware True Value [Vancouver]

Best Buy Stores Inc. [Hazel Dell, Washington]

Subway Sandwiches [Vancouver Washington]

Chris’ Integrity Repair Services Inc. [Hazel Dell, Washington]

• Chris Johnson (Owner)
• Dave Sexton

Creek Side Painting [Vancouver, Washington]

• Nick Springer (Owner)
• David

Getting Your Bird To Eat A Varied Diet

How do you get the bird to eat new things? Keep in mind that birds are flock creatures. This means that they will eat better in a social setting. If you have a finicky eater or you are just introducing a new food to the bird, try eating the food yourself with the bird present.

If you or any other birds you own are eating with gusto, your finicky eater will be much more likely to eat or taste the food as well. Some birds need to be right next to you when you try this.



Familiar surroundings:

Birds eat better in familiar surroundings, without distractions. A noisy, chaitic environment will disrupt your bird's mealtime. (And may give you ulcers as well). Try a nice quiet environment while you eat.

Keep Trying:

Keep trying! Keep offering the food. Don't give up. Dietary changes can be accomplished with much patience and persistence on the part of the owner. Just because you offered the food two or three times and the bird refused to eat it, doesn't mean that you should give up. It may take months before you see your bird enjoying all those wonderful foods that you are slaving away to prepare. Too many people only off a new food once or twice and stop offering it. Birds are like small kids. They make take a while before they will try something new. We know of a case where it took almost a year before the bird decided to try the new food!

Sweetening:

Sometimes sweetening the food with a little honey may prompt nibbling. However, you must be careful about making this a habit. Too many sweets are not good for birds. (not for humans either). It could even lead to diabetes or death.

Tricking the bird:

Millet is a favorite seed of many birds. This is like candy to them. Try sprinkling milled or pieces of millet spray on top of the food. Start with more millet than other healthy food. Push the millet down into the new food. Your bird will pick at the millet and maybe even get a tast of the other food. As the bird starts to do this more readily, decrease the amount of millet until you no longer have to add any. We call this the sneaky approach.

Fresh sprouts:

Offer freshly sprouted seeds. You can start seeds yourself or buy sprouts in the produce section of your local grocery store. Varieties include alfalfa, beans and mixtures with radish and clover. This is a special treat for most birds and will start them getting used to different foods. Freshly sprouted seeds also contain lots of vitamins and minerals. Freshly sprouted wheat grass is also a healthy treat.

Alternate:

Another method that may work is to alternate offering seed a few hours at a time, then offering fresh fruits and vegetables, or other healthy foods for a few hours. Keep track of your bird's weight if you do this. Remember to offer the fruits, veggies, etc. first, because your bird will be the hungriest in the morning. It will be more likely to try new foods then.

Different presentation:

Sometimes presenting the food differently will get the bird to eat. Try chopping the food up into small pieces, or you can shred it. Alternate different foods on a daily basis. On the market is a birdie "shish-kabob" toy made to hold food.

Jealousy:

Don't forget about the power of jealousy. Whenever you have more than one bird, there is a competition for your attention. Use it to encourage your birds to do what you want them to do. (Hint: this advice pertains to other areas of training as well.) Birds are very much like little children. What ever one has, the other one wants.

Family affair:

Make eating a family affair -- get your bird involved. Your bird will be the healthier for it. This is not meant to imply that you allow your bird to go from plate to plate, taking whatever it wants, or walking over your food. Little birdie footprints in your mashed potatoes is not exactly appetizing. THE BIRD MUST LEARN PROPER TABLE MANNERS! Try using his own dish or make a special place for him by placing is stand near the table. A bird without table manners is open to many different accidents such as being scalded from hot foods or choosing the wrong food for itself. Wrong foods are chocolate, avocados, and rhubarb. These CAN kill it. Mayonnaise products are included as well, because mayonnaise can go bad rapidly. (Hint: The word "NO" figures prominently in any discussions of birdie etiquette.)

Special goodies:

Feed your birds all types of goodies. While some of them prefer to eat with the family, you should still offer these foods in their treat cups daily. So far a favorite snack food has been popcorn (plain). Birds differ in how they eat it - some have gone so far as to jump into the popcorn bowl. Mix other healthy foods in with their special goodies. For special treats try stringing grapes, popcorn, whole peanuts on a thing string (not too thin), Remove as soon as the food disappears. Also as a special treat, pine cones stuffed with peanut butter and seeds are welcomed by some larger birds.

Putting A First Aid Kit Together

Know how to restrain your bird properly. Knowing this may just save your bird's life!

When a bird is injured, you will need to stop the bleeding before you take your bird to the avian veterinarian. Apply direct pressure to the wounded area and once you get the bleeding under control, then transport the bird to the veterinarian. Remember that the bird can bleed to death very rapidly.

Egg binding, seizures, concussions, protrusions from the vent, difficulty breathing, wheezing, broken bones, etc. need to be taken care of immediately. Get to the veterinarian ASAP!

It is always a good idea to have an emergency kit for your birds. Most of the items included here can be bought at any drug store. Some of the other items you may have to go to a medical supply store to obtain. Whenever you take a trip with your bird, make sure that you bring along a miniature version of the listed items.

ITEMS IN THE KIT

*List of veterinarians and other emergency numbers

*Sterile syringes, no needles: to squirt liquid over injured area or to give avian veterinarian prescribed medication.

*Gauze sponges or pads: to clean the injured area.

*Bandaging materials (gauze or ace bandage that has lost most of its elasticity.

*Towels to restrain the bird or cover the cage.

*Rubbing alcohol (Isoproply) & hydrogen peroxide: to clean an injured area or disinfect equipment.

*Clotting agent (styptic powder, flour or corn starch) to stop bleeding.

*Cotton tipped applicators (Q-tips) to help clean the injured area.

*Hot water bottle, heating pad, or heat light: to keep the bird warm.

*Needle nosed pliers or hemostats: to pull blood feathers or hold things.

*Nail file: to file nails or beaks.

*Sterile saline solution: to help clean or wet an area to get a better look.

Providone iodine syrup and solution (Betadine): to help sterilize area or to be used to clean your hands.

*Penlight flashlight: to provide you with extra light so you can see what you are looking at.

*Tweezers, long and blunted are best: to help you remove material (i.e. seed caught in nares).

*Hand feeding formula or baby food: to give your bird some extra nutrition

Small scissors: to cut gauze or bandaging material.

*Apple juice (the best one to use), Pedialyte, diluted karo syrup: give to prevent dehydration.

*Paper, pen and pencils: to write down what you did and when.

*Wooden tongue depressors: to open your birds mouth, (not for use with larger birds).

*Tape. (masking) won't stick to the feathers much: to hold bandages in place.

*Ziplock bags: to take samples to the vet such as fecals or ingested substances.

*K-Y Jelly (water based lubricant).

*Latex gloves: protects your hands against hazardous materials.

*Sick cage such as an aquarium tank or small cage: to keep a sick or injured bird warm and quiet.

NEVER apply oil anywhere on the bird!

NEVER give over the counter medicines without an avian veterinarian's approval. They can mask the symptoms of an illness which may result in an erroneous diagnosis!

NEVER treat a bird yourself. This is something that your avian veterinarian must do! Do not self-medicate a bird, ever!

NEVER use slaves, ointments, or creams if your bird gets burned. Use cool water instead.

NEVER give your bird medication meant for a human unless directed to do so by an avian veterinarian.

Our Logo Birds

Our Logo Birds are named "Tarzan" & "Jane"

Also known as Bozo & Goldie.

Goldie “Jane” ,is on the left side of the photo( A Blue & Gold Macaw) that was taken while fruits and veggies where being prepared for all the birds in the sanctuary.

She was purchased at the Los Angles Bird show in November of 1991 at the young age of three months.

Her new mate, “Bozo “aka “Tarzan (A Brazilian Scarlet Macaw) on the right side of this photo m was also purchased at the Los Angles Bird show at the age of 6 months.

Both birds where selected & purchased by the founder & Co founder William M. Driggins & Christopher J. Driggins.

His first core intention of this purchase was to hope these opposite sexed set of birds would bond and breed an exotic highbred Name a “Catalina Macaw”.

Until Christopher started to realize his dream would jus become part of the already over blown population of exotic birds that in America that where in most cases the birds out live their owners.

At this large bird show, with over ten thousand birds. Christopher noticed a large amount of handicapped and special needs birds that sparked his interest. He had already had his first rescue of “Caesar” a Goffin Cockatoo.

And while at the bird show he and his father purchased special needs elderly Umbrella Cockatoo. Noticing, and understanding that the handicap birds would need special housing, perches and toys.

He began a small rescue for elderly & handicapped birds.

Not to mention special perches & specialized arranged toys for their exercise. This touched him and he discovered a special need to sanctuary these special needs birds and elderly birds.

So back in the early 1990’s Christopher Driggins had his heart touched by a broken feather.